A Dream with Obstacles

I've dreamt about traveling to the other side of our planet many times, but somehow it never worked out. Until now. The invitation to New Zealand is my unique opportunity to finally make this dream come true. The destination is Wanaka, a small city in the Queenstown Lakes district of the South Island of New Zealand with three ski resorts in the vicinity. The first snow has already fallen and I am getting excited. Due to a knee injury I had a very short season last year and I can barely wait to get on my skis again. First contacts to the local freeride scene has already been established. I am ready to go... My photo equipment comprises two camera bodies and several lenses with focal lengths from 14 to 300 millimeters.

With the tripod and laptop, the carry-on luggage is already at 17 kilos. And the rest? Ski equipment, climbing gear and a minimum amount of clothes are not lightweight either. Somehow I need to sneak by the check-in with that photo bag. I will try to carry it as casually as possible, making it look like five kilograms. And when boarding is ready, I'll just stay in the background. August 3, 2013. I am at Zurich airport, scanning the departure display. I am shocked: my flight is canceled. The plane to London has technical problems and the connecting flight is overbooked – no chance. Changing flights is a drag – the computers are down due to a system malfunction. I have to go back home, a place that I did not want to see for another four weeks.

It takes several hours and some irritating phone calls before I am back at the check-in desk. I'm off. Today. What a relief, but with a handwritten ticket in my pocket, I don't feel all that confident. My travel route has changed and a stopover in Australia causes new worries at the check-in: do I need a visa? August 5. New Zealand doesn't welcome me with entirely open arms: I spend 50 minutes at customs persuading the officer that I do not need a work visa in spite of the professional photo equipment. Two weeks later, I meet skiers Lucas from Bariloche and Nadine from Innsbruck. My project "freeride New Zealand" is finally on.

The initial plan of traveling to Fox Glacier in Mount Cook National Park has to be canceled due to the warmest winter since 1860. Instead, the locals recommend the other side of the mountain range, the Tasman Glacier. We pick the Tasman Saddle Hut, a simple cabin without electricity, heating or kitchen in the middle of an overwhelming alpine environment. Getting there is much harder than in Europe. It would be a day hike across glacier moraines, impossible with our baggage. The only alternative: a small plane or helicopter. After waiting out a minor storm, the conditions finally look promising. We pack our stuff and drive to Mount Cook National Park. The level of excitement is high when we stand on the small airfield.

Contrary to the forecast, the weather suddenly changes. No chance to reach the hut today. Too much wind. I am getting impatient. My return flight to Switzerland is scheduled for the end of August and better weather is not expected until the end of next week. I have to change my ticket - I am not going home without pictures. Finally, the last week of August offers perfect conditions for both freeriders and photographer. A short storm delivering around 30 centimeters of fresh snow is followed by a high. Once more we shop for food, pack our gear and hit the road. The first day in Mt. Cook Park is all about vertical. We can't stop hiking and riding, thinking that we need to catch up after all the lost time waiting for the right conditions.

It's not before the sun sets and after many runs in the surroundings of our base, the Tasman Saddle Hut, that we stop searching for new lines. The snow conditions are exactly as predicted and the enormous glacier offers the best stage for great photos. Switzerland has enough mountains and glaciers to spare, but definitely not with an ocean in the background. In the evenings, we are exhausted but content, sitting in our simple cabin in the middle of nowhere enjoying spectacular sunsets that make all the endeavors worthwhile. Top of our bucket list is a summit called Elie de Beaumont. It's 3,109 meters high with scary glacial faces and an impressive appearance. We traverse the Tasman Glacier with the first sunrays. The crevasses are easy to cross.

A first steep ascent takes us into an area with larger crevasses and crags. We detour and cross a first, unstable snow bridge. More follow. Finally, we face a crevasse that is impossible to pass. After three and a half hours, we are forced to surrender. It's too risky. We are disillusioned. The only alternative now is Hochstetter Dome, about two hours away from here. Not a giant, but at least a summit. In spite of our disappointment, we are rational and experienced enough to see that Hochstetter will offer some spectacular runs. It's still early and we make full use of the day with additional hikes and shootings. Deep blue skies, sunshine, snow crystals glistening in the light. Rugged rocks and untouched couloires are in front of us.

For a short moment, time stands still and we hold our breaths. We are in awe of the beauty of nature. This perception needs to be captured. I feel the itch in my fingers. Lucas and Nadine are overwhelmed, too. Now every second counts. The light slowly crawls along the mountain ridge. It will soon cast the perfect shadow; the right moment for my shutter to be released the very moment the skiers hit the sweet spot. There's truly no "first line" unless you are first. We are still disappointed that we did not make the desired summit, but the images of the day are the biggest reward for the hikes, the endurance and our patience. In spite of all the obstacles, this trip was worth all the effort.

New Zealand's impressive landscape is a must for every freerider and photographer willing to hike and sweat. I met many friendly and helpful people on my way and was lucky enough to travel with a highly motivated group. It was a great trip. Meanwhile, I am at the Queenstown airport scanning the departure display. Flights are canceled, one after another due to a snowstorm. Let's see how I get home now...