Italien, Schweiz, Österreich · Rätische Alpen
Crossing the Alps
Issue 2025 · Words: Mico Kehrle · Photos: Martin Fiala · 4 min read

Between appointments, calls and a flood of emails, it’s always there – the desire to be outside. For me, this means slowing down, consciously spending time outdoors and feeling everyday life fade away. Right there, with snow, silence and friends. Finally, the time had come – our Alpine crossing …
Between appointments, calls and a flood of emails, it’s always there – the desire to be outside. For me, this means slowing down, consciously spending time outdoors and feeling everyday life fade away. Right there, with snow, silence and friends. Finally, the time had come – our Alpine crossing would take us across secluded mountain passes, through spectacular landscapes and to charming mountain huts on a four-day trip – always with passion, team spirit and an eye for what really matters: the joy of being in the mountains. Each leg had its own character, challenges and magical moments. We were joined by an extraordinary team: Vale, a creative filmmaker with a knack for capturing special moments.
Martin, a former World Cup skier and photographer with the perfect eye. Öf, a trail runner and adventurer. Trischi, a filmmaker and photographer with an eye for genuine mountain moments. Together, we wanted to leave our mark – in the snow and on ourselves. What makes this crossing so special? First and foremost, the people, then the adventure, the regions and the memorable moments. A story about mountains, evenings in huts and the magic of ski mountaineering, told by a group of ski buddies. The journey begins in Livigno, the “Tibet of the Alps.” The day before, we met at the train station in Kempten – backpacks shouldered, skis prepped and full of anticipation. “One-way tickets?” asked the bus driver to Livigno incredulously.
A hint that our plans were not the norm. Early in the morning, we climbed up to the Passo del Leverone in Mediterranean light. The skins provided good grip, our breathing calmed, the terrain widened. At 9,245 feet, we crossed the national border – the light shifted, the wind picked up. The first descent brought packed snow, then flat terrain to S-Chanf. Skating, pushing, gritting our teeth. The final vertical feet dragged on. “Earn your turns” would be the fitting hashtag. The Es-Cha hut welcomed us like a box seat above the Engadin. We warmed up with hut owners Nicola and Silvana, drinking tea, eating macaroni, sharing stories.
Outside, the starry sky sparkled above the Bernina – inside, the feeling grew stronger: we have arrived – not just geographically. Day two begins quietly, with orange hues lighting up the peaks. Today, we’re traversing the Engadin. The steep climb to Porta d’Es-Cha at 9,843 feet demands focus – hard-packed snow, skis strapped to our backpacks. At the top, the view opens to
the glacier below Piz Kesch. Martin says aptly: “Every foot of the climb is worth it.” The descent into the basin is a gift – the finest of powder, wide slopes, everyone carving their own line, alone and yet connected. Coffee awaits at the Kesch hut, the light dazzling outside. We glide through a broad valley before the next ascent – through an open landscape made for ski touring. The final descent is at the Sertig Pass, down to the eponymous village. Sun on our skin, rösti on our plates. It’s the simple things that count. The sky above Klosters is cloudless on day three, the group attuned, the snow icy. Below the Madrisa Horn, we break trail with crampons. No one else is around, only the sound of metal scraping on snow can be heard.
The snow is variable, but the run into Austria’s Gargellen valley is surprisingly good – shaded slopes filled with stacks of powder. Again, we marvel at the diversity of the Alps. At Kristberg, we gaze into the Kloster valley. We are alone here, too. The snow is getting thinner, the north-facing slope reaches almost to the valley and we walk the last stretch. The Arlberg greets us with slush. Tired legs, busy minds – we feel something is coming to a close. Three days, three countries, countless feet of elevation – and one last chapter. One last set of stories. The final day begins with rain. We set course for the Großer Widderstein. Higher up, the snow improves, firming underfoot.
On the final climb to the Hochalppass, the sky suddenly clears. For a moment, everything is perfect. In sunshine and clear visibility, we trace the contours of familiar peaks – Höferspitze, Gamsfuß. Then, the last descent through known terrain. In the valley, we toast to four days, three countries and an unforgettable adventure. What is left? The ideal Alpine crossing, just as it should be: honest, communal, mountaineous and full of small highlights. We were virtually alone and did what has always drawn us back to the mountains: we sensed, we trusted, we sought simplicity.





