Russland · Caucasus Mountains (Sotschi / Krasnaja Poljana)
Olympic Powder
Issue 2017 · Words: Lucas Swieykowski · Photos: Johan Axelsson · 5 min read

Cold. Rough. Dangerous. Remote. These and many more are some of the keywords that went through my mind when I thought of a possible trip to Sochi. Exotic. Rare. A real adventure. The 2014 Winter …
Cold. Rough. Dangerous. Remote. These and many more are some of the keywords that went through my mind when I thought of a possible trip to Sochi. Exotic. Rare. A real adventure. The 2014 Winter Olympics were held there... What does the terrain have to offer? We didn't know, but were ready to go and find out. Our mission? Discover Sochi and all its backcountry. See what it has to offer – but in a different way: searching for powder! Together with fellow skiers Thibaud Duchosal and Pat Vuagnat, Laurent Jamet as our filmer and Johan Axelsson taking pictures, we started the journey, hoping to find plenty of white gold. We were on a mission. The fascination of the untouched; experiences beyond what you've known or seen so far.
The town of Krasnaya Polyana would be our base during this trip. The city underwent a great change from small mountain village to city, with all its pros and cons. Growth with the intention of being able to compete with the best ski resorts in Europe, including first-class hotels and gastronomic infrastructure. The day after our arrival, we hiked to the top of the mountain to familiarize ourselves with the area. It was snowing hard, and visibility was minimal. And even though we couldn't see much, we sensed that the place was something special. The snow layer was already very good, and we expected a good snowstorm, which would bring more than 40 centimeters within a couple days. Taking advantage of the trees, we experienced some fantastic first runs.
Europe wasn't having a great winter, so these were the deepest conditions I had skied that season. Epic! We realized we had come at the right time. Two days of bad weather went by before the sun decided to show up again. And when it did, we were speechless. What a place! Beautiful mountains with lots of different terrain and countless options. Eye candy everywhere. We couldn't wait to get up there. Knowing that the avalanche danger was very high after the storm, we had to focus on the smaller spots, not super steep or too exposed. We found all kinds of terrain: big and steep couloirs, amazing Alaska-like spines, steep forests with pillows and all kinds of formations. We were in the right place.
As the days passed, snow conditions stabilized and became more predictable. Our time to look for more technical and steeper terrain. Our patience paid off. During the storm, we saw many natural slides. The ski resorts worked hard and bombed when and where it was necessary, leaving the terrain as safe as possible not only with the ski resort boundaries, but also in the backcountry. We skied an area near Alpica with very steep spines, which had not been affected by the wind or sun. Alpica used to be a ski resort, but ever since operations were shut down a few years ago, it has turned into a prime location for ski touring. Face shots, powder, speed... sometimes it's hard to explain what you feel when everything seems perfect.
But you must never forget that "perfect" doesn't really exist. The avalanche danger is always present. You must be aware of the potential dangers. Know about the weather and the snow conditions and carry the necessary safety equipment (and know how to use it). We always expect the unexpected, that's why we can fully enjoy the fun and adrenaline. And let me tell you: The views from the top were breathtaking. Just imagine the sun setting right into the Black Sea... We skied for several days and found incredible terrain, but there was an area we hadn't explored yet: A ridge far away from town that would involve a lot of boot packing. We tried to find out all we could about the desired location. Is the area closed off? Do we need a permit?
Everything seemed fine, so we set out, walked for several hours, hiked through the magical forests we had been skiing earlier. The snowpack was good, and we soon reached the ridge. We had several options, and Pat was the first one to ski down. He got to the bottom and signaled thumbs up. Thibaud and myself were ready to go. I was a little nervous. The run was steep and exposed. I trusted the snow layer, but there were some weak spots here and there. Drop-in. It was perfect. A flawless line with amazing snow. We wanted more and hiked back up. But this time I had to pay off a lost bet. I had to ski naked, only wearing my transceiver and helmet. It was a crazy experience, super fun, and worth many laughs even several days later.
After skiing, the afternoons were pleasant and calm. We went out and met lots of locals, who wanted to hear our stories and share their own experiences. We made some good friends and had a great time. We were told to try a typical Russian bath. The "banya" is like a sauna, but you go through different phases from dry to lots of humidity. There's also a banya master who is moving the air inside the room and hitting you with bunches of dried branches and leaves to improve both the air and blood circulation. That creates a lot of heat and energy in the room, which is almost too much to handle. But it's actually very relaxing, and after a long day of skiing, there is nothing better.
By the time we had to leave, my general idea of Russia had changed quite a bit. I do not see it as an isolated and dangerous place anymore. On the contrary! We met wonderful people and explored an incredible area that has a lot more to offer than what you saw on TV during the Olympics. I will return as soon as I can. Anyone interested in joining?





