On the Snow Leopard’s Trail

For most European skiing enthusiasts, it's not very common to go on a ski trip in July. But Andrzej Bargiel is not your average skier. At age 28, the Zakopane (Poland) local has already skied some of the world's most demanding peaks including Shisha Pangma, Manaslu, and Broad Peak. When the opportunity of traveling to the Tian Shan and Pamir ranges arose, he couldn't resist. But this trip was different. The goal was to conquer the five highest peaks of the former Soviet Union, also known as "the Snow Leopard award." In addition, Andrzej wanted to ski the mountains, something only a handful of people have ever done before.

And to ensure the trip would receive its spot in the history books, he planned to set a new speed record and be the fastest person ever to complete all five ascents. Months of planning preceded the trip. Only a few climbers have ever completed the Snow Leopard. In 1999, Denis Urubko and Andrey Molotow from Russia set the record for climbing all 7,000-meter peaks: 42 days. Andrzej planned to crush the record and complete the climbs in just 30 days – an objective only possible with touring skis because they would enable him to travel faster, reduce the time spent in exposed terrain, and speed up necessary escapes away from changing weather conditions. Best of all, ski touring also meant Andrzej could ski the deep powder of these fabled peaks.

When everything was finally prepared, it was time to take a deep breath, set out and forget about the surrounding world. "The mountains are calling, and I must go," he laughed before passing the boarding gate at Chopin Airport in Warsaw. He was heading to the first of the five, Lenin Peak. July 16th - Lenin Peak (7,134 meters): On July 16th at 9 am, Andrzej reached his first summit. Thanks to good weather he completed the round trip in 15 hours. The highlight of the trip was the two-hour ski descent through the north face of Lenin Peak. With the help of his companion Kuba, who overlooked the run through binoculars, Andrzej managed to navigate through the tight glacial crevasses and enjoy a ride in some of the world's most virgin powder. 3,000 meters of vertical drop later, Andrzej returned safely to base camp in the oddly named Onion Fields.

High fives followed, motivation was high, and they went on to the next summit. July 25th - Korzhenevskaya Peak (7,105 meters): The following week, the crew was put to their first real test. The challenges began when the team was denied permission to cross the border to Tajikistan. The denial resulted in a 2,000-kilometer car drive on winding mountain roads and Andrzej suffering from food poisoning on the way. Upon reaching Jirgital, the team was put on hold for another three days. Moral was down. After being released and arriving at Moskvina basecamp, the group's spirits soon lifted when the sun began to shine. Andrzej decided to make use of the good weather and set out. "The first 4 hours were terrible. I felt sick and wanted to turn around".

Remnants of the food poisoning combined with long traverses in difficult snow, massive hanging seracs and a technical ridge requiring full concentration turned the trip into a tough experience. Despite the harsh conditions, Andrzej persevered and completed the tour in only 13 hours. Two out of five were in the bag, on to the next. August 2nd - Ismoil Somoni Peak (7,495 meters): Heavy snowfall delayed the ascent to the third and highest of all Snow Leopard peaks, Ismoil Somoni. Andrzej left base camp on Monday afternoon and soon disappeared into the milky fog covering the surrounding landscape. He made his way through deep snow, and later that evening reached the overnight campsite at 6,100 meters.

When ski touring at this altitude, the last thing you expect is company. While making his way to camp, Andrzej was greeted by a Russian climber. Sharing is caring, so the two decided to share a tent. After a short and rather uncomfortable night, Andrzej continued his march. Ismoil Somoni Peak's terrain may not be the most difficult, but long distances and a variety of features turn this climb into a serious challenge. Eventually, Andrzej reached the summit, took a short break, put on his skis and slowly started the descent. The long hike was well rewarded when waist deep powder was all he encountered on his way down. 27 hours after his departure, Andrzej was back at base camp, sipping hot tea.

He was the first to climb the mountain successfully this year, and despite being exhausted he was very pleased. August 10th - Khan Tengri (7,010 meters): After three peaks, no one expected Andrzej to move on to Khan Tengri this quickly. The group arrived on the South Inylchek glacier and within hours Andrzej, was back in climbing mode. A closing weather window meant he had to hurry up. And he did. After merely eleven hours, Andrzej had summited and returned to base camp. Luck was truly on his side. August 14th - Pobeda Peak (7,439 meters): The weather forecast for the final peak wasn't very optimistic. Another snowstorm showed on the weather radar. Weighing his options, Andrzej chose to give it a try.

With proper timing and a bit of luck, it would be possible to be the first person to set foot on Pobeda Peak's summit this year. In the afternoon of August 14th, Andrzej left the camp. Conditions remained ok, and he continued his climb to the overnight camp at 7,000 meters. In a bizarre twist of fate, Andrzej was once again joined by another Russian expedition team. Handshakes were exchanged, and spirits were high. However, things soon changed. Within a few hours, the forecasted snow storm suddenly moved in. Before long a thick white layer covered the team's tents. The camp was only 500 vertical meters from the summit, but the new snow meant conditions were not safe.

Faced with a tough decision, Andrzej decided to pull the trigger and head for the summit. The next morning, Andrzej moved quickly. Right after 12 pm, he stopped the clock: The fifth peak was conquered only 30 days after reaching the top of Lenin Peak. Mission completed.