Trains, Waffles and Norwegian Skiing

It is hard to imagine a better place for a hotel focusing on ski touring. Located at 2,690 feet above sea level and surrounded by mountains made for skiing, the Vatnahalsen hotel is the perfect accommodation for ski enthusiasts searching for a comfortable experience beyond the ordinary. The hotel itself is only one reason for the unique experience; the trip to get to the hotel is another. The Vatnahalsen hotel is only reachable by train, and once the train has left the platform, no more skiers will arrive. With a capacity of fewer than one hundred guests, there is a lot of space for everybody to ski untracked powder. It's the place to be for people who enjoy great mountains, no crowds, and a cozy hotel.

And the only way to get there is climate-friendly. I first visited this hotel in 2017 and got hooked right away. The five-hour train ride from Oslo was a joyride with comfortable seats and beautiful views. When my ski buddies and I got off the train at Myrdal station, it was impossible not to be amazed by the views. Mountains surround the train platform, with countless lines to ski. To reach the Vatnahalsen hotel, we had to put on the skins for a 20-minute walk and glide. I must say in advance that we had no luck with the snow during our short two-day stay. But the hotel and the mountains got me hooked, and I knew I had to go back one day. "Wow, you can see the fjord!"

Christoffer Axelsson thinks out loud while we are enjoying the views from the 4,806 feet summit of Bleienuten. I am back in the mountains above the Vatnahalsen hotel. And I love it just as much as I did three years ago. This time, we are luckier with the snow. The fjord Christoffer is talking about is called Aurlandsfjorden. Actually, he is looking at a sidearm of the world's second-longest fjord, Sognefjorden. To reach the open waters of the Atlantic Ocean from the inner shore of Aurlandsfjorden, one has to travel 170 kilometers by boat. Far below us, another natural wonder cuts through the mountains. The steep and narrow Flåm valley is meandering from the fjord up to the alpine environment.

It is possible to take the Flåm Railway up the entire valley to the Vatnahalsen. The trip is often referred to as "one of the world's most beautiful train rides." It is 20 kilometers long and passes 20 tunnels. And it took 20 years to complete the railroad. This is the second summit on today's traverse. The day started, as all days do, with putting on the skins right outside the hotel entrance. While prepping our ski gear, we enjoyed the view of what we could expect of the day. First, a crossing of the rail tracks to reach the foot of Urdshovd mountain. The first part is rather steep before reaching the south side leading up to the summit. From there, it's a first-class ski run down to the valley between Urdshovd and Bleienuten.

The spot is perfect for a snack break before we put the skins back on. The hike up to Bleienuten is straight forward, with a short steep pitch before reaching the summit and the views across the fjord. After an extended rest at the summit of Bleienuten, it is time to ski down. The 3,116 vertical feet to the bottom of the Flåm valley and the Kårdal village is one of the best and longest runs in the entire region. The first 1,640 feet are all about large open slopes made for "Formula 1 skiing." The lower part and the last 1,476 feet are different, with trees and bumps making the skiing more playful. "That was a nice run," says mountain guide Christian Edelstam as he looks back at our tracks. "Now, we have two choices.

Either we head further down the valley and take the Flåm Railway back up to the hotel. Or we hike directly to the hotel, about 900 vertical feet along the Navvy road." The Vatnahalsen hotel has a rich history. Initially designed in 1896 as a sanatorium, it was never used for that purpose. Instead, it turned out to become a popular winter destination in the early 20th century. People called it the "St. Moritz of Scandinavia." It burnt down to the ground in 1940 and got rebuilt in 1954. The hotel is one of the few stops along the Flåm Railway, which is good for business. Every year, the 100,000s people who take the train do so mainly in summer, which makes the place rather quiet in winter, which is perfect for skiers.

One of the trademarks of the hotel is its waffles. Self-service waffles are available for free every afternoon in the cozy family room next to the reception. As skiers return from a long day in the mountains, the waffles are a welcome treat. And we are no exception. After our long tour with great skiing and fantastic experiences, the couch in the family room works perfectly for our tired legs. The next day, we head for the highest mountain in the area located in the North of the hotel. It is called Tarven and stands 5,587 feet above sea level. It rises like a massive shield volcano with flanks that appear flat. The descent from the summit back to the hotel turns out to be easy, as expected.

But the waffles are still a welcome treat after another long day in the mountains. The next day is nothing but clear blue skies with some fresh new snow. Our objective is to ski the mountains closest to the hotel. This area is an enormous playground with large open spaces, steeps, gullies, and trees. As we pass the avalanche fences about 40 minutes from the hotel, the first gully appears. We head up to the plateau a few hundred meters above us and get ready for skiing. We enjoy the untracked snow all the way down to the train tracks. Suddenly we all get startled by the horn of an approaching train. A few seconds later, the train passes us at quite a high speed. As the sound of the train fades away in the tunnel, Christoffer looks at me and laughs.

That was not our train. It is not time for us to leave yet. We have more gullies, more summits, more runs, and more waffles to enjoy before we have to board a train for our scenic ride back home.